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The town of Tiradentes, Brazil, (population 10,000), which was originally called Arraial Santo Antonio, is only 9 miles from Sao Joao del Rey. After Brazil became independent, the town was renamed in honor of its illustrious native son, the "tooth puller" (tiradentes) and martyr to the cause of independence, Jose Joaquim da Silva Xavier. The history of the rebellion he led is documented in the Museu Padre Toledo, located in the former home of Father Toledo. Next door stands an 18th-century colonial building in mint condition that now houses the Casa da Cultura. A little farther down Rua Toledo is the parish church of Santo Antonio. Begun in 1710, the gilding on its seven altars is among the most elaborate in Brazil. Three blocks north of the church an intriguing 18th-century fountain, Chafariz de Sao Jose, delivers water from three spouts that are differentiated by function: one is for people to drink from, another is for washing, and another third for animals. Fortunately the hotels have only 2 spouts, hot and cold. However, our recommendation is to drink bottled water.

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